Catalina 350 International Association

I would like to thank Jerry for his excellent step by step instructions and pictures.

My mechanic and I just completed the damper plate replacement project pretty much as Jerry outlined. However, we were able to loosen the motor mounts enough to allow us to simply jack the engine and transmission up off the rear motor mounts-without having to fool with moving the shaft.

I did opt to use the PYI larger plate vs. Westerbeke.

Also I noted that although the lobes on the plate seemed not to be as warn as in the pictures Jerry sent but the washer had extreme wear.

When we finished we checked the flange alignment with the output plate and were well within tolerance. Everything is running smoothly and there is no noise at all.

I also re adjusted the shifter plate which apparently had been wrong from the original installation. This made for a smoother shift action at the helm.

Total project was about $700. and took 6 hours.

I am reading the damper replacement article with much interest. My engine has around 1700 hours and looks like the damper needs to be replaced.

When trying to download the pictures in Jerry Ross post I am only able to download DP01.
All other pictures form DP02 - DP11 won't download.

Is there anyone who can help me with getting these pictures?

Thanks in advance,

Hans v. d. Weijden (Netherlands)
Swan #254

Hans, I was able to resurrect all the images but one and I'm working on finding it. See the original post on 1st page,

Ken,

Thanks for you effort, these pictures are very helpful. I guess I will be able to do this job myself with some help of one of neighbours. The replacement is scheduled for March 2016, so I can order the new damper plate in the US the coming month.

Reading all the post, my conclusion is that the majority has chosen for the PYI high deflection RD 22AM-4 model.
What I don't understand is what is meant with the 3 degrees deflection of the original part and the 33 degrees deflection of "high deflection" damper.
What makes the difference, what are the pro's and con's?

Kind regards, Hans

Hans,
the 33 degrees of deflection is enough to absorb the torsional variations of the engine at low speed. (I think this is caused in part by a light weight flywheel).
The original damper plate did not have enough deflection and therefore transmitted energy to the transmission which caused the transmission to "rattle".
A final note on the installation is to be sure to lubricate the spline of the damper plate. I used motorcycle chain lube which is waterproof, has a high cling factor and is sprayed on for easy application.
Hope this project goes well and let us know if you have any more insights or questions.

I found and added the missing image thanks to Jerry Ross.

Thanks, Ken.

And happy holidays.

Brett

Jan King,

You mentioned you unbolted the motor mounts and slid the engine forward, and then lifted it with a 2x4. I am thinking about changing the motor mounts on my engine so doing the damper plate as you describe may be my best bet. One question, how did you use a 2x4 (where did you place it, was it used for leverage etc.) to lift the engine, presumably to get the scrap wood under the rear motor mounts?

Thanks,
Bill

Will be replacing ours shortly.

Three questions to make my list complete:

1. Size/description of the ?5? cap screws-- would like to buy replacements, as that is a high vibration environment.
2. Torque for cap screws with Locktite blue?
3. Torque for transmission to engine mounting bolts

Thanks.

Brett

I am getting ready to replace the damper plate and note that when putting a wrench on the rear motor mount nuts the entire mount wants to twist, presumably due to the rubber inside the mounts. I plan to put a little liquid wrench on them to see if it helps. I would be curious if others had this issue and how you went about getting the nuts off without tearing apart the motor mounts

Hmm. There is another nut below the motor flange that allows you to raise and lower the engine relative to the rubber mounts. I put another wrench on it and stopped the mount from twisting.

dave

Hi all.

WE have just been able to take the new to us boat out a couple of times. Last time out I did notice the engine at idle up to about 1400 or so seemed like it was a bit loud.

I read about the damper plate issue and since I don't have one to compare to maybe you could give me some insight. Below is a picture of the Engine compartment on the Stbd side I noticed a bit of material (dust). You can see that in the picture.

Is this a damper issue or just normal sounding?

Thanks.

Sounds like the damper plate issue to me. Recommend you replace it and the PYI driplesd stuffing box bellows next time you haul. We just did both on hull 442 at 500 hours and it is a major improvement.

David Edgell
S/v Blue Wing

We replaced our PSS afar seal last year on our 2008. We bought it through Amazon.

This is probably a little off topic, but is that raw water strainer just "floating" inside the large holes in that U shaped bracket or is it secured somehow? If floating, I'd be concerned about a vibration related failure over time.

roostermt,

Congratulations on your new boat.

Reality is that at an idle speed of 1,400, you can not determine if the damper is good or bad. Reduce idle speed to specs (from your engine owners manual and THEN evaluate.

Brett

Mark - The Strainer is indeed secure. Funny you say that though during the survey it was free floating and broken. Fixed before buying per Survey

Brett - the idle speed is set correct somewhere around 900. I was just stating the shaking and sound was prevalent from idle to about 1400.

Thanks guys for the help. Looks like I'll need to get someone out to take a look. Boat is just to new to me to know if it's a real condition or one I'm making up in the head.

Roost

Sorry, I must have mis-read.

Yes, if it "rattles" below 1,400 RPM, just replace it with the upgraded model.

If you are mechanical at all, we can give you blow by blow instructions. Nothing very complex, no need for air tools, lifts, etc.

Brett

Hi rooster,
Just looked at your video and definitely sounds like damper plate is the source of the rattle. Ours sounded indentical. I just replaced the damper plate after 1800 hrs. Followed Jerry's instructions (earlier post)to the letter and all went smoothly. I replaced with a high deflection R&D 22AM4. Runs very quietly now (what a joy).
The plate I removed was also an R&D plate. Does anyone know if Catalina used R&D plates from original. Just trying to workout whether this was the first plate change or if it has been done before.

Thanks ( great forum )
Joe Southward
C350#397 "MIM"
Lake Macquarie
Australia

Another successful damper replacement. After postponing it for more then a year we finished the job this week. Thanks to Jerry Ross excellent step by step instruction manual. I selected the high deflection plate RD 22AM4 which I bought at the Dutch representative for only € 170,- .
The result is astonishing, should have done this years ago. The old plate was visually still looking okay after more then 2200 hours. All the noise and rattle is gone. Shifting in gear was always with a big bang, now it is only a soft click. At lower speeds (1000-1500 rpm) all the engine noise is gone. Great result.

Thanks,

Hans v. d. Weijden (Netherlands)
Swan #254