Winterizing

[tranquilcat42]

Again - thanks! Anti-gel is now on my list.

Teri

[DuncanMcMillan]

Brett,

Zinc end of HE was free of debris and sediment but I think I'll get it boiled in the next couple of weeks. Not a big job to get it out and nice start for the spring.

I did flush the coolant manifold using water and your instructions and all seemed to go well. Do you see any difference in operating temp with water versus coolant?
Anyway we did the last run with distilled water today, will drain tomorrow and then fill 50% with propylene glycol.
Just have to squeeze in that port hatch now to drain the hot water tank.
Thanks again.

[wolfe10]

Sorry, can't answer the engine temperature difference between 100% water and the proper 50/50 water and coolant. Coolant does a lot more than just lower the freeze point. I wouldn't be without the metal protection it offers.

But, from a theoretical standpoint, as long as the engine's heat load was within the ability of the thermostat to control, there should be zero difference in operating temperatures. Said another way, with water or water/coolant, as long as the thermostat can open further to send more "coolant" to the heat exchanger, there should be no difference.

And, no idea as far as ability of water or water/coolant to transfer more heat when the cooling system is maxed out/thermostat fully open.

And, when changing coolant is when I remove the heat exchanger, boil it out with acid and reassemble with new end cap gaskets. Even when they look reasonably clean, particularly if operated in salt water/high mineral content water, you get a mineral coating on the raw water side of the cooling tubes in the heat exchanger that degrade its performance.

Brett

[DuncanMcMillan]

Brett,

Managed to pull the HE yesterday and it's now in for pickling and pressure testing.
A couple of obeservations for anyone who is contemplating doing this. I loosened off the jubilee clips on Monday. Although the hoses were initially compressed and really tight they relaxed after a day and were relatively easy to get off. Slipping a flat head screw driver and very gently working it around.
I made sure to tag the connections and hoses to match them up.
I found out that the bracket bolts (for the HE) are very hard to access and don't loosen them until you have all the hoses off.
When I reinstall HE plan is to tighten the bracket bolts first and then reconnect the hoses. No specific order.
I was thinking of using a very small smear of grease on the hose connections just to ease them on. I don't think it would cause any contamination or detrioration of the rubber - any comments?
As a side benefit the removed HE provides nice access to the Racor primary fuel filter to drain and check for water and dirt plus the secondary fuel filter. I'll probably replace both.

[wolfe10]

I would not use any petroleum-based grease on rubber parts-- it speeds their degradation.

Water works fine, a little soap in water works even better.