Replacement of in mast furling mainsail

[cuthbert]

I'm looking to replace the 14 year old Neil Pryde vertically battened mainsail on my boat.
Just about now Catalina Direct have their 15% off deal with Ullman sails, but they offer a non battened main (and do not recommend battens).

Any advice, re battened vs non battened? I never had any jamming problems and maybe they give a stiffer sail or could an equally good performance be obtained by a heavier/stiffer material?

Anyone bought a Catalina Direct sail? Or looked at it and decided something else was better? I'm keen to look at the options/recommendations before buying later this year.

[LI_Sound_Cat]

I replaced my in-mast furling mainsail and have been very happy with the results. I decided to use a local sail loft as I wanted to make sure the measurements were right given the nature of the furling unit etc. I went with vertical battens and they, combined with the new sail, have made a massive difference in terms of sail shape, pointing, and weather helm.

I went with UK sails in Mamaroneck NY.

Happy to provide any further details.

[cuthbert]

Thanks Dan,

Did you look at alternates and if so, who did you rule out? Do you have the luff and foot lengths?

The verbage on the Catalina Direct page is

"4) Many boats of this size have biminis that obstruct the view of the mains furling operation. The loft doesn’t recommend vertical battens due to possible jamming of the battens during furling and unfurling of the in-mast furling sail. Vertical battens also result in more wear when the sail is flogging (flapping or fluttering in the wind). However, if vertical battens are desired, please use add-on Z5750 for the vertical battens."

I'm thinking this may be a sales pitch as their product doesn't have battens and they also make it clear they want to sell it and never hear from the buyer again.....I also wonder, does anyone leave their sails flogging?

Anyone else with advice/comments?

I am looking at this company/product in the UK as an option if I stay with battens

https://crusadersails.com/sail/furl-maxx-plus-mainsail/

[dedgell]

We replaced our original in-mast furling mainsail in 2020. Our new sail is a North 3Di Ocean, no battens. It has been excellent. These sails are molded resin and do not stretch, which results in a consistent and reliable sail shape in all conditions. These sails cost more than a Dacron sail, but the extra cost has been worth it for us due to the better performance. We replaced both sails at the same time and also have a North 3Di 135% genoa jib, it is equally excellent.

[JohnNorton]

My new main is from North Sails- very pleased with it. I had previously bought one that was "budget priced" from a Canadian company and would not do so again. I bought dacron as I do not race the boat. As always, you get what you pay for.
A PS: someone asked about measurements they needed for a new main. You really need to have these measurements taken ON YOUR BOAT.

[Triumph]

I just spoke to Erik at Masthead Sails now in Sarasota. He has one used main in good condition, and two C350 "blanks" leftover from when they made the sails for Catalina. I am buying one of the blanks. They would essentially ad the correct luff tape and colored sunbrella fabric at the clew and you'd have a finished sail. The price should be very good, I can tell you in a few days what they quote me. But think about half price.

Bill
TRIUMPH

[cuthbert]

in mast.jpg (170.06 KiB) Viewed 213 times

I went with Neil Pryde again and a very nice sail it is.

But I have a follow up question re the inhaul and outhaul. When looking at this closely I see that its time to replace the inhaul and outhaul lines.

The outhaul is straightforward and I did that today, but is the sequence for the inhaul..... as described in the charleston spar manual and repeated here after some head scratching.
1) Remove the sail (again!)
2) This will mean that the sail is in the fully out position and the inhaul line will be at the top of the screw (not nearer the bottom as per my pic)
3) Loosen the locking bolt pull the retained end out and spin the screw to remove the old line.
4) Clean everything blast the bearings with fresh water
5) Secure the new line to the lower locking bolt, spin the new line on back to the top position where the old line is as per step 2.
6) Pass the free end back through the pulleys to the cockpit (I may secure the lines old/new with tape and pull through?)

I have checked that I can break the holding bolt free ( I sprayed it with WD40 a day or two ago).
Anybody done this recently? Is there any way to do this with threading the line in and around the screw eight times and hence not removing the sail again? Should I join old/new at step 3 and spin the new on as the old comes off?

Any thoughts, comments, or cautions?