Stanchion replacement #1

[R.B.]

I just finished replacing one of my stanchions (port side middle) that was broken due to high winds over the winter. I wrote up a little doc with photos.

The single stanchions are mounted onto the deck using 2 long machine screws/nuts and a large ¾’ nut. They are also sealed with white caulking for water proofing. Access to the nuts is from inside the cabin.
This example uses the middle stanchion on the port side of the boat. In this case the winter winds broke the welds holding the stanchion to its base. Before you get started, you need to remove the lifelines from the stanchion. Remove the spring clips from the turnbuckles of the lifelines at the bow. Unscrew the turnbuckle from the lifeline and then pull the lifeline back through the stanchions.

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When you look below you can see the nuts holding the base to the deck.

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A deep socket is required to get the nuts off of the longer Philips screws. I used an 11mm socket. The larger nut is a ¾” nut and I used a full sized open ended wrench. A socket would not fit since the wood panel is within an eighth of an inch from the bottom of the bolt. Note there are spring washers in front of the nuts. All of the nuts came off relatively easily.
Back on deck, I needed to get the base off of the fiberglass. I used a thin piece of wood to protect the gelcoat when I was prying. I used a screw driver to lift the base a little and then a knife to cut through the caulking. Working carefully I was able to cut through the caulking without too much work.

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Post 1 of 3

[R.B.]

Once all of the caulking was cut I could pry the base out of the hole.

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Now I cleaned up the dirt and old caulking. I scraped as much caulking from within the holes as possible.

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Notice the Catalina correctly chamfered the edges of the holes. This allows the caulking to press around the bolts and creates a good waterproof seal.

Part 2 of 3

[R.B.]

I used 2 kinds of sealant to reseal the new stanchion. I used a butyl tape for the large area and then some caulking to seal the holes.

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I used the 291 Sikaflex because it will seal but also allow me to remove later on again. This one is also UV resistant. The Butyl tape will stay tacky for years and also creates a flexible bond the will remain as the stanchion flexes through normal boating use.
Note: I forgot this step. You may want to tape the area around the base, so that when the caulking is pressed out, you can run your finger around the base, to create a nice bead and then pull the tape off for a nice finished look.
After inserting the new stanchion back into the holes, I put the spring washers and the nuts back on the bolts. I had an assistant on deck with a Philips screw driver to prevent the screws from turning while a screwed the nuts on from below.

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After cleaning up, replace the lifelines and you are ready to sail.

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Part 3 of 3

[Air Mobility]

Very informative post. I had the same stantion repaired and replaced a few weeks ago. The boat yard crew got a dock line wrapped around the stantion during the splashing process. They did the repair since they broke the part. I was not around, but I hope they did as good a job as you.

George

s/v Air Mobility
#158

[chesworth]

Just finished repairing weld on base of port stanchion with brace at the gate. Photos were excellent guidance. However the three nuts were only accessible by removing the panel above the breaker panel. On Taliesin this panel houses VHF, CD charging, Stereo , Link Battery monitor and tank gauge. A lot of wires! Even then it was very difficult to get at nuts. Both for the smaller two nuts 11mm and 3/4" large nut, it was necessary to use 'stubby" open ended wrenches. The threads were well coated with hard caulking which added to struggle to loosen. Definitely need two pairs of hands. The brace is only held by a SS machine screw that is easily removed on the topside. Used butyl tape to re-seal which avoided gumming up threads when re-installing. TIG welding of base cost $10.00 but removal and replacement took a good three hour, much cursing and bloody knuckles!!!

[Chips Ahoy!]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to share this.

I lost all of them in Sandy and now need to re bed two.

Again, much appreciated.

-george

[Richard Thabit]

My starboard side center stanchion was just damaged Saturday. The cylindrical tubular portion broke at what looks like a weld at the base. This write up is just what I need , thanks. However, do you know where to purchase a replacement or can it be welded back together?

I realize that I must remove the base from the boat but do not want to begin until I have a replacement or know that I can have it welded.

Thanks,
Richard
Three Sheets
C350 111
Haverstraw Marina , NY

[R.B.]

You should be able to get a replacement from Catalina. If you know someone that can TIG weld stainless, they should be able to fix it. They will need to back gas the tube so it is welded properly and won't corrode in the future.

[Richard Thabit]

Thank you. Very helpful.

[Richard Thabit]

Thank you once again for the wonderful and very instructional write up with great photos. I have replaced the damaged stanchion with a new one from Catalina Direct. It was difficult to remove the old because of the large amount of rubber like material around the nuts and bolts, however, installation of the new one was easy.
Richard
Three Sheets
C350 111

[davcom44]

From Kai Lani

I have broken two stantions on my 350 starboard side. One is the gate stanchtion,midship the other one just forewatd of it .
Both statnchions broke the tackwelds at the pylon holder bracket and the base weld at the end on the tubing. all bolts and screws
held. in the previous threads it provides niice detail on how the stanchions are through bolted (with great port side pictures).

In my case it is the starboard side. How difficult is it to remove the AC duct? Can i just remove a few clamps and pull down the duct to access the nuts?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Dave