Engine throttle and shift control cables

[william vanwagoner]

Has anyone replaced the throttle and shift cables? If so I would appreciate info on what the replacement cables are, i.e model, length etc. Also, any insight on connecting to the throttle/shift lever would be great as it looks pretty complicated.

[NormSail350]

Bill,

Did you ever replace your cables? I am about to replace the shift cable on mine. I am leaning towards having this done at the marina. I have opened the pedestal to scope out top side access, tight but not impossible.

NormSail350
Escape
Miami

[william vanwagoner]

I still have not done this job but have thought about it quite a bit. My game plan for when I get to this is as follows: It looks like disconnecting the shift and throttle cables at the engine is probably the first step, followed by cutting wire ties holding the cables to other items such as the exhaust hose. Then I would disconnect the throttle/shift lever assembly from the pedestal leaving the old cables attached and pull old cables up and out behind the shift lever. I would tape the ends of the new cables to the old ones to pull them into place as the old cables are pulled out of the pedestal.

I think this procedure may be the only practical way to get adequate access to the back of the shift lever assembly to disconnect old cables and connect new ones. Finally I would connect the new cables to the engine, place wire ties to keep cables in pace, and adjust them at the engine for proper shifting and throttle actuation. The only think I have not looked into is the type of cables to use and the lengths. I plan to start by calling Catalina to see if they can provide this info, and possibly the cables.

I would love to hear from anyone who has actually done this job to learn from their experience.

[NormSail350]

Bill,

What are the symptoms you have that are trigering the desire for replacing cables? I previously posted that my throttle shift control is stiff/has friction when I push the throttle forward in gear (prop engaged). The stiffness appears as the throtte is opened to the higher range.

My throttle cable seems to be fine. The shifter moves freely when not in gear. I cannot see an kinks, bends etc in the gear shift cable.

It shifts into and out of gear without problem, so I do not think this is a transmission problem.

What are your symptoms?

Catalina Direct sells them - seemingly at the propoer length. Per Catalina Direct there shoould be a marking on the existing cables that indicates the length (they have pictures on how to read). They also have an article on how to replace - but I found it hard to visualize without being on the boat and reading at the same time.

[william vanwagoner]

My cables seem to have stiffened up over time and I just think it would be wise to change them. I don't like the idea of a failure just as I am coming into the dock. I have not been able to locate a length printed on the cables, possibly tucked upside down or against something so I can't see it.

[russp]

Haven't tried, but have you considered just trying to lube them? I had an old Renault "when I wore a younger man's clothes" as Billy Joel puts it, and it had throttle cables running to the rear engine that became stiff over time. Just lifted up one end, taped a funnel over the end, put some penetrating/lubricating oil in the funnel and worked the cable and eventually the lube worked its way the full length of the cable and it ran smooth as silk.

[NormSail350]

HI all,

Just an update. I replaced the shift cable and now it shifts like butter. Once the old cable was out, it was easy to see the cracks and wear. The wear was not so obvious while they were in place. I had a marina do it along with a long list of other items - including the exhaust riser. I also replaced all cooling hoses, cleaned the HX, replaced thermostat. The HX was cleaned about 5 years ago and was about 45 percent blocked. I also replaced the backing plates on the engine and genset intake, PSS dripless shaft seal, replaced cutlass bearing, solved my bilge pump cycling issue. Three weeks of work (with Thanksgiving holidat in the middle) and some $$.

Splashed the boat two days ago, and bilge has remained dry - but waiting for rain to see if the PSS seal or some of the old hoses were creating the water in the bilge or whether I have some rain water. I know I have some rain water dripping through port lights, but to me in seems that that is not enough to have created the water I was constantly having in the bilge.

While in a different thread, I have saved the exhaust old riser and will cut it open when I can and see what it looks like and post pictures. Interesting Note - When replacing the exhaust riser, the Universal part number (painted blue) at was out of stock, but the westerbeke equivalent (painted red) was much cheaper . I can live with red and will decide if I will paint it later.

I also wet sanded and polished the boot stripe, painted a small portion and it came out great. Also replaced the sheer stripe and compunded and polished the hull - Escape looks like a new boat!

Well, I always leave a few things to do, just to make sure I have something to do when there is no wind

NormSail350
Escape Hull #41
Palmetto, FL

[william vanwagoner]

Do you know what type cables and lengths were used on your replacement?

[NormSail350]

Bill,

Used 3300 TFXTreme cable. I do not have the size. I would guess that it was cut and fit to size. Total costs 53.34 for cable.

I wil ask the marina if they have the length. I was charged two hours of labor at $85/per hour.

NormSail350
Escape #41
Palmetto Bay, FL

[william vanwagoner]

I contacted Catalina Yachts and they were not able to tell me the length of the cables. Catalina Direct's website specifies 14 feet for both where I would expect the throttle cable would be a foot longer than the transmission cable so I am suspect of this recommendation. It would be great to know what cable lengths to purchase before tearing into this project as the old cables could be used to pull in the new cables. I can't find any lettering on the old cables either. Frustrating!

[NormSail350]

Bill,

I have a question out to the marina that did mine, but no response yet.

NormSail350
Escape #41
Palmetto Bay, FL

[NormSail350]

Bill,

Just received a picture of the old shift cable from the marina, but not able to attach the picture.

Shift cable is 13 ft.

Old Cable shift cable has following markings

OLIRAFLEX USA CO FT13 182

I will have to go to the boat and see if the throttle cable has markings but later this week or weekend.

NormSail350
Escape #41
Palmetto Bay, FL

[william vanwagoner]

Update: I successfully changed both the shift and throttle cables today and am providing the following info to help others contemplating the same job. The shift cable is 13 feet long and the throttle cable is 14 feet long; both are of the 33c/3300 type. I was able to source 13' and 14' Teleflex TFXtreme 3300/33c cables for about $37 and $42, and a SL3 212151-003 cable nesting kit for about $30 from Go2marine. The cable nesting kit provides new parts for connecting the new cables to the Edson control assembly.

I found the trick to this is to remove the control unit from the pedestal via the engine instrument mounting hole. The following are the steps I went through:

1. Remove the steering wheel and the engine instrument panel (moved aside, still attached to the wires).
2. Remove four nylock nuts holding the control mechanism to the inside of the pedestal.
3. Remove the rubber cover and neutral detent button at the base of the control lever.
4. Remove large nut under the rubber cover and remove the control lever.
5. Remove cover in aft berth to access cables and base of pedestal.
6. Cut all the zip ties holding the engine control cables from the base of the pedestal, through the aft lazerett near the hot water heater and exhaust hose, and into the bilge up to where the cables connect to the engine.
7. Disconnect the old cables from the engine and transmission noting mounting hole locations etc.
8. Lay out new cables on cabin floor and use 10-32 threaded capture nuts (matches the threads at the end of the cables) and connect the ends of the new cables to the ends of the old cables. This allows the new cables to be pulled into place during removal of the old cables.
9. Start pushing and pulling the cables until you have a lot of slack in the aft cabin below the pedestal. Then pull the control mechanism out through the engine instrument hole and keep pulling (and pushing from below) until several feet of the new cables are in the cockpit.
10. Remove the capture nuts and remove the old cables from the control assembly noting the mounting locations and dispose of the old cables. Use the cable nesting kit to install the new cables to the control assembly.
11. Place the control assembly back inside the pedestal while pushing/pulling cable slack back into the aft cabin area. Replace the four nylock nuts, the large nut and control handle, and the neutral button and rubber cover (use clear silicone calk to glue rubber cover in place so it won't pop out along with the neutral button)
12. Go below and pull new cables into position and install new zip ties starting with the area beneath the pedestal.
13. Connect the new cables to the engine and transmission and adjust them to proper lengths per engine manuel. This must be done with the control lever in the neutral position.
14. Make sure everything works properly and then reinstall the engine instrument panel and steering wheel.

The job was a bit tedious but I was able to accomplish it alone (although a helper would have been great, especially when pulling/manipulating the cables). Total time for the job was about 5 hours.