Bypass galvinic systems

[jrohrbaugh]

I'm still broken down and green turtle cay Bahamas.
Engine now working by jumping the hot side of the duel pump
and elimination the wire from the key switch. I still don't know why there are two wires coming into the one positive side of the pump.
We worked on the110 volt system all day. Bypassed the two galvonic systems. That solved the A/C issue. However the other 110 v systems trip the breaker, every time.
Finally, the battery charger pegs out when on line, the trips the breaker.
Guessing after 15 years it's toast.
Has anyone else done the bypass to help solve the load issue. I'm told modern boats don't have these systems. I don't want to cause corrosion..
Thanks in advance for any help.
Jamie
Sail 444

[D&M]

I'm still broken down and green turtle cay Bahamas.
Engine now working by jumping the hot side of the duel pump
and elimination the wire from the key switch. I still don't know why there are two wires coming into the one positive side of the pump.

The two wires are part of the engine protection system. In the event of low oil pressure the fuel pump is cut out by shorting the power wire.
What was the original problem with the fuel pump?

Galvanic isolators stop- DC current from flowing out the boat via the Protective Earth cable connection. They will not impact you for corrosion unless you are tied up at a marina and plugged into shore power. And even then only if a problem exists on your or another boat on the marina. They should be reinstated as soon as practical if you are regularly tied up in marinas and connected to shore power.

I am in Oz and we only have single 240v shore power connectors on our boats so cannot comment on what is tripping what I assume is one of two 110v shore poser connectors? But if it is tripping every time it should not be hard to trouble shoot. If there is a short somewhere on the input AC cables a visual inspection will be required, otherwise disconnect every AC appliance on that branch and start reconnecting them.

(This post seems to be part of a thread but I am not sure what the original issue was???)

[jrohrbaugh]

Thank you.
System is working with the by pass.
However my battery charger is not working properly. It pegs the needle at plus 30 amps. Also the red wire to the battery got extremely hot. I noticed a fuse in that line so maybe got protection from harming the batteries.
I'm thinking that's were the problem is.

Thanks for the info on the two wire question. It seems likely a poor connection as the problem was intermittent. We motored 8 hrs. then made a hard reverse and the engine sputtered then quit. Happed in the ocean in large seas as well.

[wolfe10]

Pull out your digital voltmeter and tell us what voltage is at the batteries.

What is battery age?

A dead cell in a battery will give the same symptoms as a bad converter (converter at max output).

If you have two batteries and don't know if one has a bad cell, disconnect one and see if the converter still maxes out, then test the other.

If you find one battery bad, just leave it out of the circuit.

[KenKrawford]

Your battery charger may be shot. That’s exactly what mine did. No problems since I replaced it.

[jrohrbaugh]

I also found the 600volt fuse in line to the positive feed. No way to tell if it's bad but when turned on with fuse removed the charger reads 17 amps?

[wolfe10]

Do you have a volt/ohm meter? That would allow you to check the fuse in just a few seconds.

Set it to VOLTS. Black lead to negative terminal of battery, red lead to one side of the fuse, then the other. If the reading is the same, the fuse is good.

Set it to OHMS. Black lead to one side of fuse, red to the other. Continuity/0 ohms= good.

[jrohrbaugh]

I will find one. Good idea.
Of all the stuff I packed, i left the volt meter at home

[wolfe10]

Yup, a digital volt/ohm meter is one of those things that goes on the: "DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT" list, whether in a boat, RV, etc.