Universal 350B. There is debris in the inspection glass at the bottom of my [primary fuel filter that does not drain out. How do I remove that
or do i have to remove the whole devise. How is that done?
debris in the inspection glass at the bottom of primary fuel filter
Moderator: KenKrawford
debris in the inspection glass at the bottom of primary fuel filter
GVIDOR VENTURA CAT350 HULL 032
Re: debris in the inspection glass at the bottom of primary fuel filter
I too was watching for a reply looking into a sludgy globe and inner areas of the primary Raycor. My element was, interestingly, very clean.
I did experiment with a few fresh diesel rinses while the body was still in place, then draining but that really wasn't doing much. Stay well below the top of the centre tube and adjacent holes with any sludge agitated mixture or it will pour down toward your 80 micron lift pump filter. But you're replacing that right?
I took the unit off. Release the clamps on the hoses, try warming the end with a hair dryer (Don't use a heat gun) but I can tell you that the fuel hoses grap the barbs like no other on the boat. If you can get them to twist on the barb (my intake would not budge) then you may have success undoing the NPT / barb from from the elbow fitting next in line closer to the filter body. As I am in the process of replacing damn near every hose on the boat and fuel line being critical and really not very expensive considering its function, I cut mine off a near the barb (don't touch or score the barb trying to knife off the hose) Loosen the large retaining nut on the body strap and lower the unit as / if required to get the bracket screws out of the ply backing and lift the unit away and clear. Once away from the boat, I did try further partial fills with clean diesel and with the lid doing a martini shaker routine and naturally this produced unacceptable results. The unit is off now .. so lets just disassemble it. Four 1/4" head screws, I make it a redundant habit to loosen any assembly against a gasket with small little turns in a cross pattern. The rest is simple (I always take pictures ... saves the brain later when the obvious isn't so obvious)
The crud built up in the bottom of the globe was the consistency of refrigerated peanut butter so no rinse was getting that out.
If you intend to reuse the the large globe gasket (I am .. I will inquire as to replacement but I'm doubtful) then dip in clean diesel and wipe it gently without distorting or stretching at all. It must be immaculate but do so gently. Leave a film of diesel on it and set it aside.
After the basic cleaning and wiping with diesel and paper towel etc, I placed the pieces (not incl. the rubber gasket) in a clean white pail of hot water and dish soap and left them for a few hours. Rinsed with hot water and soft cloth and a bit of small bottle brush action in the passages then blew out all passages with compressed air leaving all components bone dry. I will assume you already removed the NPT fittings on either side of the body as these need to be out to thoroughly clean / inspect the internal passages and clean these fitting as well. I use Qtips all the time for any assembly. Not just for the obvious but I use them as they are an excellent tell tale. Where and when applicable try a Qtip inside your pristine passage or internal threads. Is it clean? The Qtip never lies being so perfectly and absorbently white! For reassembly just be sure the gasket and all receiving surfaces are immaculate. Dress the gasket with a light coat of CLEAN diesel. Bring the little screws up to tight slowly and criss cross pattern as when removing. Personally I don't use teflon tape for anything (maybe a bandage) For fuel fittings I use Hylomar Blue. Sorry to be so verbose .. I like to help. At least after this we can truly see the quality of the fuel coming in as we watch for sediments.
I did experiment with a few fresh diesel rinses while the body was still in place, then draining but that really wasn't doing much. Stay well below the top of the centre tube and adjacent holes with any sludge agitated mixture or it will pour down toward your 80 micron lift pump filter. But you're replacing that right?
I took the unit off. Release the clamps on the hoses, try warming the end with a hair dryer (Don't use a heat gun) but I can tell you that the fuel hoses grap the barbs like no other on the boat. If you can get them to twist on the barb (my intake would not budge) then you may have success undoing the NPT / barb from from the elbow fitting next in line closer to the filter body. As I am in the process of replacing damn near every hose on the boat and fuel line being critical and really not very expensive considering its function, I cut mine off a near the barb (don't touch or score the barb trying to knife off the hose) Loosen the large retaining nut on the body strap and lower the unit as / if required to get the bracket screws out of the ply backing and lift the unit away and clear. Once away from the boat, I did try further partial fills with clean diesel and with the lid doing a martini shaker routine and naturally this produced unacceptable results. The unit is off now .. so lets just disassemble it. Four 1/4" head screws, I make it a redundant habit to loosen any assembly against a gasket with small little turns in a cross pattern. The rest is simple (I always take pictures ... saves the brain later when the obvious isn't so obvious)
The crud built up in the bottom of the globe was the consistency of refrigerated peanut butter so no rinse was getting that out.
If you intend to reuse the the large globe gasket (I am .. I will inquire as to replacement but I'm doubtful) then dip in clean diesel and wipe it gently without distorting or stretching at all. It must be immaculate but do so gently. Leave a film of diesel on it and set it aside.
After the basic cleaning and wiping with diesel and paper towel etc, I placed the pieces (not incl. the rubber gasket) in a clean white pail of hot water and dish soap and left them for a few hours. Rinsed with hot water and soft cloth and a bit of small bottle brush action in the passages then blew out all passages with compressed air leaving all components bone dry. I will assume you already removed the NPT fittings on either side of the body as these need to be out to thoroughly clean / inspect the internal passages and clean these fitting as well. I use Qtips all the time for any assembly. Not just for the obvious but I use them as they are an excellent tell tale. Where and when applicable try a Qtip inside your pristine passage or internal threads. Is it clean? The Qtip never lies being so perfectly and absorbently white! For reassembly just be sure the gasket and all receiving surfaces are immaculate. Dress the gasket with a light coat of CLEAN diesel. Bring the little screws up to tight slowly and criss cross pattern as when removing. Personally I don't use teflon tape for anything (maybe a bandage) For fuel fittings I use Hylomar Blue. Sorry to be so verbose .. I like to help. At least after this we can truly see the quality of the fuel coming in as we watch for sediments.
Bob & Cherie
Cheeky Monkey - Hull 363
Vancouver, BC
Cheeky Monkey - Hull 363
Vancouver, BC
Re: debris in the inspection glass at the bottom of primary fuel filter
Cheeky,
Thanks much for a thorough response. I am not sure how to identify a well used primary
Racor filter but from here on out will replace them regularly. But the problem is little pieces of what looks like black small "pepper". The current filter is 30 micron but used 10 micron last. I now will explore the possibility of pouring the pepper from the "cup" without taking the hoses off? I doubt that I can get the stuff out of the "drain" at the bottom. I will turn the gas off at the tank unless there is a closer valve.
Thanks much for a thorough response. I am not sure how to identify a well used primary
Racor filter but from here on out will replace them regularly. But the problem is little pieces of what looks like black small "pepper". The current filter is 30 micron but used 10 micron last. I now will explore the possibility of pouring the pepper from the "cup" without taking the hoses off? I doubt that I can get the stuff out of the "drain" at the bottom. I will turn the gas off at the tank unless there is a closer valve.
Re: debris in the inspection glass at the bottom of primary fuel filter
Gvidor
Hoping you had success. I have a feeling you needed to take the hoses off as the fittings were probably very tight.
Worth getting the pepper corns etc ... out. It will be so easy to monitor tank sediment conditions going forward.
Yes, both fuel supply and return valves on the top of the tank to off before removing any lines.
Of interest, I only just got around to finally firing up the engine again as I discovered a broken alternator bracket.
That was a very interesting issue and I will post about that for others that may encounter one of these.
Honestly Catalina could this one small bracket not have been steel instead of cast aluminum?!!
To the point ... I found the fuel system to be pretty much self bleeding. I filled the Raycor canister full of fresh diesel, turned on the fuel valves and left things alone for awhile attending to other areas. I did prepare a 12V lead for intermittent connection to the fuel pump while bleeding at the bleed screw on top of the secondary Fuel filter (see posts by Brent Wolfe)
I confess however I did as the previous owner did and turned the ignition key on which engages the fuel pump and let it be for about two minutes, During this time I attempted bleeding at the secondary fuel filter but got nothing after many attempts.
Starting up today was immediate. One time it died and started again right away and ran fine thereafter. I have read that our system is self priming in that the fuel pump engaged as mentioned (key not turned to glow plugs and engine not started, just to on only) will push fuel through the system and push all air out and back into the fuel tank via the return / excess / air line (I think you get the point regardless of my inaccurate naming)
Ours is hull 363. Best of luck,
Bob
Hoping you had success. I have a feeling you needed to take the hoses off as the fittings were probably very tight.
Worth getting the pepper corns etc ... out. It will be so easy to monitor tank sediment conditions going forward.
Yes, both fuel supply and return valves on the top of the tank to off before removing any lines.
Of interest, I only just got around to finally firing up the engine again as I discovered a broken alternator bracket.
That was a very interesting issue and I will post about that for others that may encounter one of these.
Honestly Catalina could this one small bracket not have been steel instead of cast aluminum?!!
To the point ... I found the fuel system to be pretty much self bleeding. I filled the Raycor canister full of fresh diesel, turned on the fuel valves and left things alone for awhile attending to other areas. I did prepare a 12V lead for intermittent connection to the fuel pump while bleeding at the bleed screw on top of the secondary Fuel filter (see posts by Brent Wolfe)
I confess however I did as the previous owner did and turned the ignition key on which engages the fuel pump and let it be for about two minutes, During this time I attempted bleeding at the secondary fuel filter but got nothing after many attempts.
Starting up today was immediate. One time it died and started again right away and ran fine thereafter. I have read that our system is self priming in that the fuel pump engaged as mentioned (key not turned to glow plugs and engine not started, just to on only) will push fuel through the system and push all air out and back into the fuel tank via the return / excess / air line (I think you get the point regardless of my inaccurate naming)
Ours is hull 363. Best of luck,
Bob
Bob & Cherie
Cheeky Monkey - Hull 363
Vancouver, BC
Cheeky Monkey - Hull 363
Vancouver, BC