Hi folks, I noticed my spillover fan between the Freezer box and the Fridge side has stopped working - might have been so for years I dont know. Took it out and bumped it and the sensor etc to no avaIL. Bought a new fan from another non Alder Barbour site and BINGO the sensor seems to work with the new fan pointing into the freezer (it was installed the other way around originally), It looks identical to the original fan and only cost $5 which I can afford in place of buying the entire kit, including sensor, for $300.
I connected up all the wiring but not sure if I have the right colours going to the connections. There are Red, Black, Green and Yellow - I know - dumb that I did not photograph it when I took it apart. It seems to cut off and not restart after a few minutes with the fridge doors closed. There are 3 prongs on the sensor - looks like a regular 3 prong plug in. Which wires go to which prong? How can i tell if it is working correctly other than a very very quiet hum when the Fridge lower door is open? I checked the wiring diagram which came with the boat and it is not clear. It shows two wires and two just stop.
All ideas appreciated,
Geoff S - C350 # 392, Taeko 1V Semiahmoo WA
Wiring for Spill over fan 2006 Model
Moderator: KenKrawford
Wiring for Spill over fan 2006 Model
Geoff.S., Semiahmoo, WA.
Re: Wiring for Spill over fan 2006 Model
Hi Geoff,
I am guessing you located a computer cooling fan for the replacement, and these often have a speed control feed as well as +ve and -ve. I have replaced a couple of these and I think they came with some info about which lead was which.
If you do a web search you will find stuff like this:
A three wire fan reports its speed. Add a fourth wire, and the fan's speed can be varied by the motherboard.
The simplest PC fan requires two wires. The red wire provides power (+12 VDC), the black wire is ground (0 V). Applying power to will start the fan running full speed. If a modern fan's blades are stopped, the fan's drive circuitry interrupts power to the fan motor, then retries starting the fan periodically. This prevents the fan from overheating, resulting in a burned out fan (and a potential fire - and keeps the manufacturer from achieving CE/UL/CSA/TUV certification). You can try this by stopping a running fan, then letting it go. If, after you free the fan blades, the fan doesn't start for a moment, you have this modern kind of fan.
A three wire fan adds a tachometer output to the two wire fan. The yellow wire pulses an output voltage twice per fan revolution. With the fan spinning at 6000 RPM, you would measure a 200 Hz pulse rate (6000 rev/min / 60 s * 2 pulses/rev = 200 pulses/sec). Some PC motherboards monitor this input. In the case of fan failure, the motherboard can send an alert (beeper, message to the OS, etc.), or take action directly, like slow the CPU or even shut down the system.
Add a fourth wire to control the fan's speed. The fourth wire operates similarly to the third wire, but in reverse: this wire controls the fan speed. Intel created a wiring standard for this fan, including the connector type, pin positions, and wire color code. I haven't cited the Intel standard here, but it is widely reported to be: Black - 0 V, Yellow 12 V, Green - Tachometer output, Blue - PWM speed control input.
The fan's speed is controlled by pulsing the voltage on the fourth wire. This wire does not power the fan. The pulsed signal changes the speed of the fan. This method of varying the output of devices (i.e. a fan, light, or heater) with a digital control is called pulse width modulation, or PWM.
The thermostat for the fridge side is just on/off so presumably just puts out 0 or 12V on one pin, and ground on another. The third pin is probably dead?
As to direction of flow - don't know. I have installed mine to pump cold air from the top of the freezer section into the fridge where it would fall towards the bottom and cool what was in there. The reverse is going to push cold air upwards from the bottom of the freezer to the bottom of the fridge and up. In the end probably doesn't make any difference.
I am guessing you located a computer cooling fan for the replacement, and these often have a speed control feed as well as +ve and -ve. I have replaced a couple of these and I think they came with some info about which lead was which.
If you do a web search you will find stuff like this:
A three wire fan reports its speed. Add a fourth wire, and the fan's speed can be varied by the motherboard.
The simplest PC fan requires two wires. The red wire provides power (+12 VDC), the black wire is ground (0 V). Applying power to will start the fan running full speed. If a modern fan's blades are stopped, the fan's drive circuitry interrupts power to the fan motor, then retries starting the fan periodically. This prevents the fan from overheating, resulting in a burned out fan (and a potential fire - and keeps the manufacturer from achieving CE/UL/CSA/TUV certification). You can try this by stopping a running fan, then letting it go. If, after you free the fan blades, the fan doesn't start for a moment, you have this modern kind of fan.
A three wire fan adds a tachometer output to the two wire fan. The yellow wire pulses an output voltage twice per fan revolution. With the fan spinning at 6000 RPM, you would measure a 200 Hz pulse rate (6000 rev/min / 60 s * 2 pulses/rev = 200 pulses/sec). Some PC motherboards monitor this input. In the case of fan failure, the motherboard can send an alert (beeper, message to the OS, etc.), or take action directly, like slow the CPU or even shut down the system.
Add a fourth wire to control the fan's speed. The fourth wire operates similarly to the third wire, but in reverse: this wire controls the fan speed. Intel created a wiring standard for this fan, including the connector type, pin positions, and wire color code. I haven't cited the Intel standard here, but it is widely reported to be: Black - 0 V, Yellow 12 V, Green - Tachometer output, Blue - PWM speed control input.
The fan's speed is controlled by pulsing the voltage on the fourth wire. This wire does not power the fan. The pulsed signal changes the speed of the fan. This method of varying the output of devices (i.e. a fan, light, or heater) with a digital control is called pulse width modulation, or PWM.
The thermostat for the fridge side is just on/off so presumably just puts out 0 or 12V on one pin, and ground on another. The third pin is probably dead?
As to direction of flow - don't know. I have installed mine to pump cold air from the top of the freezer section into the fridge where it would fall towards the bottom and cool what was in there. The reverse is going to push cold air upwards from the bottom of the freezer to the bottom of the fridge and up. In the end probably doesn't make any difference.
Russ Peel
Avalon #150
Avalon #150