Haul out Advice

Post your technical questions or solutions about your boat's hull, prop or rudder here.

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S/V Serendipity
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:29 pm
Location: Daytona Beach Fl

Haul out Advice

Post by S/V Serendipity »

Hello all.
Have a few questions prior to our hauling Serendipity for maintenance and bottom paint.

Anyone have any experience with Copper Coat bottom paint?

Opinions on feathering props.

Has anyone had any success with replacing the cutlass bearing without dropping the rudder or raising the engine? My Broker, when we purchased Serendipity, said he has done it many times on 350s and that the shaft will go past the rudder.

I was told by another C350 owner that the prop shafts on early 350s were bronze and he replaced his with a Stainless prop shaft. We had not heard this before.

Any other suggestions on any bulletins or issues we should look at while she is on the hard. We have not found many upgrades from the previous owner. We will be replacing the PSS seal with the new version.

Thank you in advance for your input.

Bart, Trish and Sailor the boat dog

S/V Serendipity
Bart, Trish, Sailor and Gizmo
S/V Serendipity
Daytona Beach, Fl.
Triumph
Posts: 256
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:34 am
Location: Tampa, Fl

Re: Haul out Advice

Post by Triumph »

I've never heard about bronze shafts on C350's. this is the first time I've heard that, and I really wonder it it's accurate.

There has been a lot written in the forum here about changing the cutlass. My own experience with a 2004 model is that the shaft would not clear the rudder.

There has been volumes written in the forum about feathering and folding props, most all of which are very positive.

No experience with copper coat bottom paint.



Bill
s/v TRIUMPH
yodagwb
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:34 am

Re: Haul out Advice

Post by yodagwb »

On hull 103 the shaft definetly was not stainless, though it is now. The shaft will not fit past the rudder with the cutlass bearing in place it either needs to be removed first or the shaft needs to be cut out in two peices. A new shaft will fit past the rudder and the new bearing can be installed after. I did put. Copper coat on. So far I love it and the diver loves it. His quote,"wish all the boats had this stuff". Went on Sept 2014 along with 5 barrier coats after a "bottom peel" we are in south Florida now. Better safe than sorry. I did put a folding prop on in 2014, only regret is that I didn't do it in 2004.
S/V Serendipity
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:29 pm
Location: Daytona Beach Fl

Re: Haul out Advice

Post by S/V Serendipity »

Thank you

Any and all advice is appreciated. Looking into if we need to replace the shaft. Going to pick up copper coat and Martek davits this coming week. Will pull Serendipity week of March 16 and get her ready to go. Also ordered a feathering prop.
Bart, Trish, Sailor and Gizmo
S/V Serendipity
Daytona Beach, Fl.
yodagwb
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:34 am

Re: Haul out Advice

Post by yodagwb »

Copper Coat- all 4 layers need to be applied in one day. I did 1/2 the boat one day and the other 1/2 the second day. The CopperCoat is very water soluble until it sets and needs protection from rain and dew therefore a drip skirt is advised. I believe that the paint has a 3 day plus cure time before you can splash. Copper dust requires you use a good quality dust mask not those things you see them running around in Japan wearing. Most important, a lite sanding before you splash otherwise the paint will not work, as in do nothing. The sanding exposes the copper dust and starts the process. Don't know how you are removing the old paint. This is most likely the worst part of the job but it needs to be done. I had it peeled and sanded. When they got done the bottom looked like it did when it came off the truck from Florida new. To be on the safe side 5 coats of barrier, at that point why not. The hull is polyester, which will blister, with a vinylester outer layer, which will not blister. Question, are you sure the vinylester layer is fully viable after all that sanding? Alternate colors per layer, gray, white, gray, ect.

The Shaft- If your cutlass has been replaced before you quite possibly will be able to remove the cutlass without dealing with the shaft and rudder issues, there are set screws on each side of the shaft log, most likely under the paint. If you have the early composite cutlass bearing (before they changed them) chances are it will fall apart before you can get it out and you will have to deal with the rudder issue. If memory serves the shaft is about 4' long and is a 1" diameter. You may want to check around with some metal fabrication shops to get an idea of cost before you commit to a path. I thought the shaft was SS until I cut it out at which point there was not question it wasn't Stainless. Even had a lab do some test to make sure I wasn't crazy. It is not typical Stainless, has all kind of other metals in it.

Have fun
yodagwb
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:34 am

Re: Haul out Advice

Post by yodagwb »

Before anyone starts, I understand Stainless is a combination of metals. This had a yellowish tint to it when cut and when I gave it to the fabricator he even asked what it was, it didn't look like any Stainless he was use to seeing.
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