Removing Coupling From Shaft

[KenKrawford]

While my boat is out of the water, I decided to change the bellows on the dripless shaft seal. What a mistake ! I've spend the better part of 3 days trying to get the transmission coupling free from the shaft. The shaft and coupling have no rust. I applied PB Blaster to the coupling and into the 2 set screw holes several times. Many taps with a regular and deadblow hammer did nothing. I also heated the coupling with a heat gun and then a MAPP gas torch. No Joy. I then tried to "jack" it out using the arrangement similar to the one pictured below. I was unable to use a 1" socket between the shaft and transmission as the key in the shaft was 1/4" proud of the shaft end.
It has been suggested that I will probably have to cut the shaft in order to get the coupling off. I really don't want to do that but feel I'm out of options. Any suggestions would be most welcome.

[wolfe10]

Ken,

You are doing the right stuff:

Plenty of penetrating oil-- I like 50/50 ATF/acetone
Heat the flange.
Using your "puller" (a great one BTW), place it under quite a lot of tension.
Wrap on the flange with a ball peen hammer (light, sharp raps). Rotate the shaft and rap as you rotate.

Can't imagine that these old fashion tricks won't work.

Brett

[johnjab]

I had the same problem. I decided to let the pros at the boatyard get it off. They used the same method using the socket and also used an air hammer. 3 hours later it came off. I had to get a new coupling from all the hammering. Now I have a 2 piece coupling that I will remove every 3-4 years to prevent that from happening again. Good luck.

John Jablonski
Therapy
#156

[tranquilcat42]

Wow - this is timely. Tranquil is 10 years old this year and the bellows have never been changed, so I plan to do so this fall.

Is there additional information? Located elsewhere on the site?

Thanks

Teri

[R.B.]

HI Ken,

I have read (not experienced myself) that using your method of putting a socket between the flanges has a potential of bending the flange on the tranny side. Instead people have used a puller from Harbour Freight to get the flange off the shaft, thus alleviating the chance of damaging the the tranny flange.

[KenKrawford]

Ralph, you are correct that the way I proposed initially does carry the risk of damaging the transmission. Ultimately I ended up using the Harbor Freight wheel puller. It took 4 1/2 hrs to finally free up the coupling.

Teri, I've submitted a write up of my experience for an upcoming Tech article in Mainsheet. If you need the info sooner, PM me and I'll send you a copy.

[BillBerner]

Ken -
I'd love to see your detailed noted pre Mainsheet.
Also, which puller from harbor freight did you use. There are a bunch
Thank a million.

Bill Berner
BillBerner@me.com

[tranquilcat42]

Am good till Spring and will wait

Thanks

[nybor]

boy, talk about frustration! My mechanic and I spent 3 hours TRYING to remove the coupling. - no joy. The only way to remove the two safety wire bolts was to heat them with a torch, allow to cool and then remove (with ample penetrating oil before and after heating/cooling.

We tried the same technique - using the Harbor Freight puller and heat -not allowing it to cool, but still on tight as a drum. I am afraid we will have to cut it off and get a new one.

We soaked it and will try once more next week to remove it, but not hopeful.

dave

[william vanwagoner]

I am getting ready to do this again myself and had the boat yard do it last time at great expense. I would be interested in learning more about the two-part coupler; where did you get it and how well does it fit given there is very little room between the shaft seal and the transmission.

[leigh weiss]

Some insight on the shaft/PSS Bellows/cutlass replacement.

I just finished replacing the cutlass bearing, the PSS shaft bellows and shaft.
I removed the shaft from the rear coupling by:
Removing the ss wire and lock bolts added lots of penetrating oil on the key way and down the screw holes. I used an electric Impact wrench to remove the locking bolts.

Splitting the coupling by loosening the 4 bolts on the coupling providing a .030" gap in the coupling faces..
bracing the rear coupling from moving rearward with two oak sections of wood braced on the aft platform holding the muffler.
connecting a short slide hammer directly to the shaft. A threaded adapter found in a hardware store connects the shaft to the slide hammer.
applied several quick slides and the shaft came out of the rear coupling.
Then removed the old cutlass bearing and noticed shaft ware and decided to replace the shaft.
Cut the old shaft at 20" (the old shaft was 40" the new shaft is now 41.5" This added dimension provides more clearance for the prop to the dead wood and allows for a zinc collar to easily fit in front of the prop.
Removed the old cutlass bearing and replaced with a bronze body Bonita.


With the cutlass bearing out. the new shaft could squeeeeeeeze , with a little push on the bottom of the rudder into the shaft log past the rudder. Put tape on the threads of the new shaft to protect the rudder.
After the shaft is installed the cutlass bearing is slid into place and secured.
I have the slide hammer and adapter if any one needs them. I did not take pictures as I did the job but would provide a better explanation/description if you need.
The job took about 2 hr of work and several hours of thinking and prep.

[KenKrawford]

I am getting ready to do this again myself and had the boat yard do it last time at great expense. I would be interested in learning more about the two-part coupler; where did you get it and how well does it fit given there is very little room between the shaft seal and the transmission.

Bill here's the split coupling I considered when I replaced mine - https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboar ... -couplings. General Propeller supplies Catalina with their shafts and couplings.