very hot exhaust port on one cylinder

[JohnNorton]

Ouch! I had some white smoke at higher RPM (2700) on my Universal M35B engine. Inspection with a laser temp sensor showed the exhaust ports to read: #1 cylinder @ 120 deg; #2 @ 132 deg; #3 at 190 deg; #4 at 140#. I suspect the No. 3 port temp may be a symptom of an exhaust valve failure. Engine temp on block was around 140 deg, temp gauge on helm read 162 deg as did a laser reading on exhaust head away from any specific exhaust port. Any thoughts welcome. Thanks-= John

[leigh weiss]

Check the valve clearance. Adjust if required.

[wolfe10]

How many hours on the engine?

Ever overheated?

As already suggested, have valves been adjusted? Any tight/locked down?

[JohnNorton]

I have a professional coming out this week to check on the cause of this event and hopefully his servicing the engine will resolve the issue. Cleaning the injectors and valve adj, timing check are on the list.
I have not had valve clearances adjusted, had engine from approx. 200 hrs to now 620. The high temp alarm did go off once at around 300 hrs (clogged strainer). I shut it down immediately, the impeller showed no damage. The exhaust has no blue, grey or black smoke running at 2000 RPM but at high RPM, (2700) we do see white steam. My greatest concern is the unusal smell we had, not rubber nor electrical- but certainly something related to HOT as heck. I'll post here the result of the professional inspection / service.

[JohnNorton]

Hot exhaust port resolved: cleaning injectors and re-adj valves seemed to fix the problem. But.... I had sent oil for an analysis and got back from Blackstone Labs the following: " Engine has contamination problem. Potassium (75) sodium (2104) ratio indicates salt water or coolant present in the oil. Also high readings on alum (16) chromium (18) and iron (70) indicate wear. Advise short intervals (under 20hrs) of use. We've heard these engines can have crankshaft seal issues." Bummer !
Engine oil had approx. 120 hrs on it (changed annually along with filter), engine has 630 hrs, 2004 boat. Just passing this along. John

[wolfe10]

John,

The most common way for salt water to get into the engine is to continue to crank the engine and not have it start. The water lift muffler has insufficient exhaust volume and the raw water pump continues to pump salt water. It can back up into the engine exhaust manifold and engine.

SO, if you have a no start, but need to keep turning over the engine, either close the raw water intake (to be opened immediately if engine starts) or remove the drain plug from the water lift muffler.

Unless something unusual happens, and you know and follow the proper "care and feeding", these engines are pretty bomb-proof.

[JohnNorton]

We hope the evidence of a small amount of salt water intrusion did come from excessive cranking. We did crank without starting longer than advised once when the boat was well heeled to starboard (20-25 deg+); had to level it out to start.
Seems when the sailing/hull angle puts the exhaust thru hull under water the engine will not start. Perhaps another obvious lesson. Do others find this to be true ?

[KenKrawford]

John, are you the original owner of your boat? I believe it was some time in 2005 that Catalina issued an anti-siphon "fix" for the exhaust system to prevent water incursion from the sea into the muffler and/or engine. The suggested location of the vented loop was under near the companionway steps. Mine is behind a teak panel.
If you've had sea water fill your muffler, that could explain prolonged starting after a hard sail.

[wolfe10]

Yup, Catalina "Engineering Bulletin" Number 69 A and B for retrofitting earlier boats with anti-siphon kits provided by Catalina.

But, straining my brain to remember if water can back up from muffler into the exhaust elbow and from there into the engine exhaust manifold.

Been too long since I looked carefully inside an exhaust elbow.

[JohnNorton]

I've had some issues with high sodium in engine oil samples. Earlier thinking this was from sea water intrusion. Perhaps this is something else- antifreeze getting into engine oil (sodium 940 ppm, potassium 30ppm and antifreeze at 1.88%) All these values are alarming, perhaps indicating a problem with the head gasket or a cracked head. Anyone had anything similar; cause, cure ? Thanks- John

[wolfe10]

Usually, coolant in oil is easy to determine:

1. Coolant level goes down with no sign of external leak.
2. Oil has a milky color.
3. As it gets worse, a light tan "foam" when you remove the the cap where you add oil.

Any other symptoms?

Anti-siphon kit installed (or late enough model that it came from the factory with it)?

Have not cranked engine for a long time without closing the raw water inlet?

As far as the readings, I would contact the company that did the analysis.