Catalina 350 International Association

Has anyone had any experience replacing the rub rail aluminum extrusion? We have about 10 feet that was damaged when hitting a piling. My first thought was to just replace the entire original 20 foot section and the 3 foot section near the transom. Upon closer inspection, I found there are 1/4"...

After 8 years, I decided to find a replacement for the front door seal. After taking some measurements and doing some research, I selected a Trim-Lok X135BT D-Seal. It comes in 25 foot lengths through Grainger for about $50. It seems to be almost identical to the old seal, although slightly higher a...

It is time to replace my jib sheets. The manual calls for 1/2" diameter, Y.B. What does the Y.B. stand for?

Any recommendations for best value sources?

SeaBreeze, I don't know how well it would have held up, as I no longer have that chain/rope connection. I don't remember why, but apparently it did not pass through the windlass much better than any of the other connections. At some time, I went back to the standard eye splice with the stainless ste...

Interesting that this topic came up as I was planning on 'practicing' this process this spring in preparation for a cruise down the west coast of FL. It appears to me that the emergency tiller would only be useful in the case of a steering cable failure. Any other type of steering failure would not ...

I'm not sure, but I believe the boot stripe is gelcoat not paint. Maybe that is what is driving cost. You may want to be sure what you are getting.

I do not have a Kiwi prop, but was also not satisfied with the standard 14x10 fixed blade prop. I believe you are correct in that it is vastly underpropped. We installed a Gori folding prop last winter and I feel it is the best addition I have made to the boat other than adding solar panels. I am no...

It sounds like the unit is clogged if you are not getting any discharge out the thru hull on the starboard side. I had this a couple of years ago, however I was able to get some very small flow by attaching a garden hose directly to the AC input side. Our raw water intake is equipped with a Y-valve ...

The Admiral is considering brushing some of the thinned solution on cracked insulation on the life lines. Maybe I can get a royalty?

The rubber coating on our ladder latches has been deteriorating for some time, and I have wrestled with how to best repair it. Here are some before and after pictures: Ladder Latch-Before.JPG Ladder Latch-After.JPG I thought about some sort of heat shrink, then decided to try Liquid Flex Seal. The p...

You don't have to replace the entire fixture. You just have to be sure which fixture you already have on top of the mast. We wound up using the Dr. LED Polar Star several years ago and it works great. Power draw is almost not measurable.

Yes, that is the area that needs to be sealed, but much larger. The forestay tang is a stainless plate about 3/8" thick and maybe 4" wide running fore and aft through the bottom of the anchor rollers. You have to seal the area all the way around the tang.

Here is a picture of how I sealed the forestay tang area through the anchor rollers. It's not very clear, but I believe you can make out the sealant around the tang. I originally used clear silicone, but that began leaking again after a couple of years. The second time, I used clear Lexan which seem...

I use Gates PN 7395. But given your 2 posts I suspect you have the correct belt. When new, my adjustment is about in the middle of the slot, as it ages, adjustment slot is nearly used up. My experience is that they last about 7 years (1000 hours).

The same thing happened to my C80 screen. I sent it to GuageSaver.com they refurbished it for $150 plus tax and shipping.

Before and After:

After all the discussions about blown engines, etc., I decided to replace our exhaust riser. Boat has been in salt water 13.5 years with 1800 hours on the M-35B engine. I purchased the Westerbeke part number 037403 from Discount Marine for $234. Part number cast on the riser is 36743. Apparently the...

NormSail, The cycling of the bilge pump is likely due to a faulty or non-existent check valve. Whatever amount of water that is in the discharge hose when the float switch shuts off will slowly drain back into the bilge causing the float switch to kick back on. However, what you really need to do is...

Yes Ken, that is the article. However, I think my issue is that when I go to the main C350IA page and select Members Area, it requires a password, and I have no idea what that password is anymore (recently upgraded computer). It is certainly not the password for my account on the forum page. Could y...

HI All, OK so you have convinced me it is time to replace our exhaust riser. Is anyone certain of the part number. We have the M-35B. Our casting says Westerbeke 36734. When I Google that, it says it has been replaced with the 37403. It appears correct, although it is red. When I Google exhaust rise...

We replaced our anchor light with an LED from https://www.doctorled.com/p21.htm a few years ago. It draws about 0.1 amp versus about 1.0 amps from the original bulb. That's a significant difference in battery consumption when you realize the anchor light is on for 10-12 hours. You do want to be sure...